Wednesday, February 22, 2006

excellent climbing day

I focused on bouldering today. In fact, I only got on the wall once and that was just to show off to some meat-head guy who was struggling with a 5.9 that he termed “impossible”. I raced up to the hard part and, Keith style, repeatedly and effortlessly performed the “impossible move” while commenting on how easy it is if you “just do it this way”. LOL!

So today I focused on the boulder. Bouldering routes at BCR are labeled like this:

Light green = absurdly easy (I can always do these)

Blue = very easy (I can get these after a few tries)

Brown = easy (I have never finished one of these before)

First I did a few light greens and even one really overhung (think: hanging upside-down) blue. Then I decided to work on a brown. I tried it one, five, ten, twelve times. No luck. Too overhung. Holds are too small. I am too tired.

I decided to give it one last try. I searched my IPOD for some inspirational music and found Cher’s Song for the Lonely (it has inspired thousands of women on Weight Watchers, so why not me?). I cranked up the volume and gave it a last go.

Match start with a nice deep pocket. Right hand up to a little pocket, left to a smallish pinch. Right hand up to a nice pocket. Left hand up to a hand-sized undercling. Feet on tiny chips. Here is the hard part: right hand up to a pinch (see pic), crappy feet, and then puuuuuuuuulllllllll in with the right hand and a big swing up and to the left to a left hand pocket (this is where I fell on the previous 12 times). I got it! But now I am hanging like a monkey with my feet in the air. Swing the feet up onto chips, pull up with the left hand, right hand in a pocket and then left hand to the top of the boulder.

I finished my first V1!


Comments:
It's surprisingly satisfying to show a n00b how to climb a 5.9 that they claim is impossible. And hey, it is really easy if you "just do it this way"! :-)

Sounds like a pretty tough V1, congrats! You'll be cave climbing in no time.
 
Congrats, it sounds like you are getting as good at climbing as I am at hiking!!
 
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